I knew when we were leaving the house that I was probably forgetting something. Maybe several somethings. And in fact, this was the case. I forgot to bring an extra outfit for the wedding (I'll explain that one later). I forgot to bring make-up, which I don't often wear, but thought I might, since we were going to a wedding. Oh yeah, and the worst one.
If you take a quick scan of this post you might figure it out.
Right. Who goes to their first (only?) traditional Gabonese wedding and doesn't bring a camera? Apparently I do.
I did realize that I had my iPad, but it just seemed to strange to pull out. Why not use my phone? Yeah, 'cause I plain forgot about it. That's me.
So you'll have to forgive me and just read my descriptions. The pictures would have been cooler, but we'll deal with what we have.
So on Friday morning around 11:15 our flight took off for Port Gentil. If direct, it's about a 45 minute flight. So I had thought we'd be arriving around noon, which was perfect. A little lunch, nap for Xander, change to our wedding outfits, give Kevin a call, and then go to the wedding which was supposed to start around 2.
Hang on, let me back up here for a second. Who's Kevin? He's our French teacher at the terminal. He is Gabonese, from Libreville, and marrying a girl from Port Gentil. Also, those wedding outfits? We had them made - Kevin went with me to a tailor with fabric and we had the outfits made. (And one of these days, I'll post a picture - maybe after we get Xander's, which wasn't finished in time to go to the wedding.) Anyway, the bride's side (mostly family) wears one pattern and the groom's side wears the other. So we got to be super special guests and wear the same fabric. So it was pretty cool.
Okay, so back to our flight. Ends up the flight was stopping at one of the well sites - Rabi. Brant had known this - apparently we were still supposed to get to Port Gentil by about 2. So we would have been hanging out there for a little, but not too long. But the schedule had changed. (The flight schedules are seriously changing just about every day right now. For a day there were no flights at all because the carrier had let its license lapse or something like that.) Anyway, so we get there and find out...the plane is not even taking off again until 3:25.
Remember how I was happy that I'd get to feed Xander and give him a nap?
So we're stuck in Rabi. In a place that is called an airport. There were some benches at least...and a roof...but not really walls. And I had snacks with me, of course. But I didn't think Xander was going to accept fruit leather and dehydrated apples as lunch. Even if I threw in some of the zucchini muffins. Thankfully, after getting our temporary badges to be in Rabi, someone came over and told us we could go to the restaurant.
So we followed two guys on a path through the woods to a trailer that was the restaurant. They had food like our club has here, and we were able to have a real lunch. I was maybe as excited as Xander was. We then took turns entertaining Xander and reading. We called Kevin who said to let him know when we got there - and he would send someone to get us. He also said we needed to be in our outfits already.
Finally, we got to Port Gentil around 4. We got our bags and changed our clothes - after texting Kevin to let him know we were there. He said someone would come to get us. Thankfully - it was someone in the same fabric that we were wearing, so we knew it was the ride for us. Also, the guy spoke English. The driver a little less so, but still. We piled in the car, luggage and all, and took off toward the wedding. In the car, we learned that it had started an hour before.
We got there and left our bags with the driver - who was not actually going to the wedding. Don't worry, this isn't a smoking gun, I was just kind of surprized by the whole thing. We got our bags later though.
Anyway, we walked over to some chairs - Brant ended up sitting right next to Kevin. I took the first shift with Xander.
So what does a traditional Gabonese wedding look like?
There were four canopy tents set up - all with different colored stripes. (I was laughing, thinking of some American weddings, where things have to be perfect down to the very last detail. Tents that don't match?? The horror!) Two were on one side - over the bride's family and friends - and two on the groom's side. In the middle...were a bunch of goods. There were 8 cases of beer, 7 of soda, a giant bucket, cooking oil, a banana tree, and a bunch of other stuff I couldn't see. Everyone was sitting on plastic chairs (they didn't match either) and the dress really varied. There were definitely the folks in the bride or groom fabric, then some people dressed nicely, and some people in shorts and t-shirts.
People kept arriving well after we got there. Several people were up and down, most of them weren't chasing after kids like I was, they were just getting up to go talk to people. Cell phones rang, and generally, it seemed pretty casual. When I said Brant was sitting next to Kevin - that's because Kevin was five rows back. At his own wedding. Not sure if that's the way it's always done, but that's the way it was here. The bride was actually not there.
And in the middle, a negotiation was taking place.
The whole thing was held in the language of the girl's family. So Kevin had hired someone, a lawyer, to do his negotiating. When I got a turn to sit, one of the guys next to me was saying that he couldn't understand anything. There are apparently 60 languages spoken in Gabon, and the one they were speaking was not one that anyone on our side knew. He said usually it was translated into French, but not this time, so he thought it was boring. The lawyer described all the wonderful things that Kevin was giving to the family. And then her uncle stood up and complained about the very same things, how they weren't good quality and other things like that. (Someone was telling Brant what was going on. When he took his turn watching Xander, the guy who was telling Brant everything thing had left, so I just watched with no idea what was happening.)
A song was played and the lawyer discussed with the bride's family. There were a couple more rounds of negotiations and songs. The bride's family got up and went to discuss things. Kevin's side got up and went to discuss things. A giant wad of cash was thrown down with all the other goods. And this helped turn the tide. Kevin was called to the front. More negotiations took place.
Finally, the bride came. She was accompanied by...what I am assuming are her female relatives and friends. They were singing and clapping as they danced her down to the middle. (Xander really liked that part. He clapped along.) But even then - there were more negotiations. She got down on her knees before her male relatives - and I think was saying, hey, I really do want to marry this guy.
And finally - there was much rejoicing. The family accepted the marriage.
Kevin had told Brant that they could have still said no. It wasn't just a prearranged drama - it was a real negotiation. I think it would have been unlikely for them to say no, but it could have happened.
It was almost 7, so we said we needed to get Xander home for dinner and bedtime. Kevin's brother and the friend who had come to pick us up drove us to the hotel. We felt pretty bad, pulling them away from the wedding, but they said it was pretty much over now. The families would share a meal together, but it was over and no trouble to take us. We still felt bad.
We drove over to where our luggage was, got that and went to the hotel. Xander had been snacking so much at the wedding and was so tired we just put him to bed. I went down to see about getting some dinner for me and Brant - but there was no take away and no room service. Thankfully, I had my Kindle, so I sat down and had dinner. Brant ate some cookies for dinner. And that was it - our first night in Port Gentil - our first time at a traditional Gabonese wedding. Part 2 will continue the trip - and there's more wedding coming!